Staged Orchid Care

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Light is crucial for long-lasting flowers

No matter what you've heard- orchids need bright-filtered light. In the home the brighter the better. Bright ambient light is key for the longest lasting blooms.

It is nearly impossible to give your orchids too much light in a home environment outside of very warm unfiltered South window. And even then, the leaves would need to be touching the glass.

Common home room temperatures (not too hot or too cold) are best for the longest flower life. 

 

Tips for watering your staged Orchid

A Staged Orchid is any orchid that is kept in its plastic grow pot and placed inside a decorative container. The orchid is then stabilized inside the container and the surface is designed with mosses and lichens. The surface is purely aesthetic and only serves to cover the grow pot and any mechanics we use to secure the plants in the container (and looks great). This could be 1 orchid in a small pot or 10 in a large one, they are designed the same way and are intended to be watered in place. Since we are covering the grow pot- this will cut down evaporation drastically and the pot will dry much slower so we need to approach watering carefully

 

  • Always check BEFORE you water Staged Orchids may need a little water each week but it's always best to check first. The best way to check is with your finger directly into the grow pot. Our Staged Orchids are typically grown in Sphagnum Moss which can retain water for long periods of time. Wet Sphagnum will feel very cool to the touch and distinctively wet while dryer Sphagnum will be a bit "spongey' to the touch but still dry. It's not uncommon to go 2 weeks between waterings with staged orchids      

Wet to the touch? skip watering for at least a few days before checking again  Dry? water                            

  • How to water  Using a small-mouthed watering can, something with a spout, or even an old water bottle, water "under" the foliage of each plant in the planter. The easiest way is to lift the lower leaves up and water at the base. This will make sure the water hits the grow pot and the roots. Make sure you water each individual plant. Sometimes in larger Staged Orchids it can be hard to tell how many plants are in the container but if you look you can discern individual sets of leaves (not flower-spikes) Even a little water spilled into the top of the plant (or "Crown") should be dabbed out as it can cause rot and you will loose foliage and flowers rapidly  

 How much water?  1/4cup (2oz) - 1/2cup (4oz) per plant                                                                                                                               

 

Other things to consider 

  • No Ice Cubes, Ever. Tepid tap water is just fine.
  • A warmer/brighter/dryer location will dry your plants faster while a cooler/darker/humid spot will keep them wetter longer
  • When in doubt dry it out. Go a couple extra days if you're unsure. A waterlogged planter will almost surely kill off roots quickly which means they lose their ability to uptake water and blooms will collapse or fade much faster 
  • Remember to water under the foliage. This will insure you hit the root system and avoid the dreaded Crown Rot which happens when water collects in the top (or crown) of the plant. 
  • If you felt you flooded the pot with water, take it to the sink and "tip" excess water from the planter

 

The #1 problem directly related to watering-

Crown rot is caused when water is left in the top or “crown” of a plant many times in household conditions. This is most commonly seen in Phalaenopsis or Paphiopedilums but can occur in any orchid that has leaves that form a crown. Under these conditions rot develops in the rhizome (in monopodial orchids this is the center column where leaves grow from) and quickly works its way down to the base killing all of the tissue that connects the leaves to the rhizome. It can happen very quickly and if unchecked can result in total loss of all foliage and any flowers if present. If caught quickly though the plant can recover and grow either a new crown or more commonly, a basal set of leaves (keiki) that eventually will reach flowering size. If you experience crown rot, remove all affected tissue with a clean cutting blade and sprinkle cinnamon on the surface can help but many times once it's spotted it's too late to save the plant. This is another reason to ensure good airflow in your growing space and always try to water early in the day to ensure your plants are dry by night time.

Collar rot occurs when there is a wet condition allowed to persist in the crevices of the orchid foliage. This usually happens when the plant is misted or watered and water on the leaves does not completely dry before it gets dark (keeping the cellophane around the plant can also exacerbate this problem) These are plants that grow in the canopies of trees where air is always moving and abundant and their foliage is susceptible to rot very easily

Occasionally, orchids will yellow 1-2 bottom leaves with no need to worry as this is quite common and can occur from a sudden change in environment or some water resting in the folds of the lower leaves. Either let these fall off or peel them off with a downward pull on the leaf.